Mangia magic

Owner David Murano provides fireworks as patrons twirl napkins to celebrate a birthday in the audience. TOM WILBY PHOTOS

The Italian Fisherman keeps guests guessing — and reappearing

Twice a day, several times during the week, an unusual thing happens in the otherwise quiet town of Grant-Valkaria on the southern border of Brevard County. 

Clots of cars begin jockeying for spots in the parking lot of a long, aqua-blue, Cracker-style building across from Fisherman’s Landing county park on U.S. 1. 

The drivers’ maneuver; they stalk; they innovate — all in the quest for a parking spot. The reason for the vehicular strategizing is dinner at The Italian Fisherman: a most unusual destination restaurant operated by David Murano, a most unusual restaurateur. 

This steady stream of people descends upon the restaurant to await one of the two dinner slots Murano orchestrates on four or five afternoons and evenings a week, depending on the time of year. Some aspiring diners settle down on a small sea of mismatched chairs along the long porch. Others mill by their cars. The impatient ones try jiggling the handle on the front door — a fruitless move. The door remains locked until Murano opens it to usher in the crowd.

It’s unusual for dinner not to sell out. Patrons come for the magic — gastronomical and actual — as Murano is also a magician with a deck of cards. They also come for the ambiance, which is set off by a funky decorating scheme that could be described as a mashup of the The Godfather and Jaws. This is, after all, The Italian Fisherman.

The house is almost always full, so it’s best to come early to enjoy the ambience.

The stern of a decent-sized cruiser has been transformed into the bar of the restaurant. Murano’s right hand guy Tony Fabiano, who does everything from making sure dinner is running smoothly to taking care of honey-do upkeep projects, mustered a handful of helpers to cut the boat in half and put it in place, when the place opened for business about a year ago.

On the open rafters, a collection of vintage fishing rods and reels dominate the ceiling, while the walls sport old photos of docks and fish long gone, as well as images of tough guys like Sinatra and Brando. Several televisions silently play Goodfellas, My Cousin Vinny and the like, while guitarist Thomas Wesley Bowman — who opened for Billy Joel at the King Center — plays a variety of hits from Cat Stevens, John Denver, Johnny Cash and other boomer stars. 

“Sing out loud and don’t worry about bothering other guests,” recommended Bowman. “If someone is celebrating a birthday, twirl your napkin, but keep on eating.”

Large parties are easily accommodated at The Italian Fisherman.

ANYBODY’S GUESS

The restaurant is the perfect place for a birthday celebration.

Murano starts the evening with the ground rules, because The Italian Fisherman espouses the philosophy of abbondanza: the joy of plenty.

“Pace yourselves — this is a marathon, not a sprint,” he admonished.

Murano is right: It is best to sit down, unbuckle the belt and go with the flow of food that will be coming your way. There is no need to choose from a menu, because the restaurant hasn’t got one. Guests do not know what they will be served until they are served. 

“You have no clue,” Murano said.

Murano admits he himself often does not know what will be on the table until the day of, when he and Chef Oscar, aka Ricky, finalize dinner plans. “We do the menu around 1 o’clock,” Murano said. “We go with the flow.”

The calm before the storm. The porch of The Italian Fisherman before the crowds begin to gather.

Between card tricks, Murano also works as a server at the restaurant.

Specific dishes are determined by what Chef Ricky would like to prepare on any particular day. There is, however, a general idea of what to expect: variations of chicken, fish, shrimp and pasta for entrees and the massive arancini, the rice ball that is an appetizer mainstay. 

The prix fix menu seems to vary by night, with one night costing $35.10 and another $49.50. Regardless, it’s a deal. On a recent $49.50 night patrons were served seven appetizers, along with multiple entrees, and were urged to eat any or all of them. Every table is served the same items, generously portioned according to table size. Big parties, however, earn an extra dish as incentive for guests to adopt a “more the merrier” approach.

Dishes are served family style. Guests dig in, picking and choosing among the cornucopia of food presented. Halfway through a mound of appetizers, take home boxes begin to be distributed — an acknowledgement that most guests cannot consume the copious amount of food presented to them. 

A recent dinner featured the arancini, of course, plus Caprese salad, shrimp cocktail, fried spinach strips, bruschetta and more for appetizers. The entrees were coconut shrimp, chicken Milanese, eggplant Parmesan, plus a fish dish and pasta. Fried Oreos and chocolate cake smothered with frosting ended the feast.

Sister eatery, The Backyard, also offers live music. Note the ‘No Karens Allowed’ sign.

UNORTHODOX 

Take home boxes are a regular part of the dining experience at The Italian Fisherman. Prepare to take home a good deal of the food served.

The quirky eatery draws patrons far and wide. Maine resident Martha Buck was there with her sister Melissa Buck, cousin Liz Hall and their partners. 

“Our parents are snowbirds and they rave about this place,” Martha said.

“I saw the reviews online and was really impressed,” Melissa added. 

Sebastian residents Nancy and Mike Parkinson had tried visiting the restaurant when it first opened but they couldn’t snag a table. They were lucky this time around when they visited with their son, Robert, who lives in Cocoa Beach.

“We’ll be back with his fiancé,” Nancy said, sitting amidst several empty plates and full take-home boxes. 

Murano’s personality is as unorthodox as his restaurant. Before each meal, he places a pack of playing cards at each table, instructing guests to open the box if they are interested in seeing magic tricks tableside. If you’re not, he does not take it personally. But if you are, he will visit your table several times to demonstrate his impressive sleight of hand abilities.

Murano’s last performance of the evening is when he hand-delivers dessert. He lights a big blow torch [a smaller one apparently wouldn’t do] and then lights a candle on a tray of desserts, including delectable fried Oreos, while a bouncy birthday song blares from his speaker system. Patrons initially think that the delivery is just for a birthday guest at the first table but by the time a fourth or fifth tray of desserts is delivered with blow torch, candle and birthday music patrons catch on that every table will receive the same birthday treatment. 

The New York snowbird, who winters in Sebastian, still owns two restaurants in the Empire State. He has bought and sold 77 restaurants and doesn’t plan on stopping anytime soon. During his drives along U.S. 1, Murano happened to spot a dejected-looking building with an “opening soon.” That sign had proven aspirational — until Murano and cousin Josh Weiss decided to go for it. In the process, they acquired not one but two restaurants: behind The Italian Fisherman sits The Backyard, a more traditional eatery that Weiss manages. Some patrons like to arrive early to The Italian Fisherman, grab a good parking spot and enjoy a drink at The Backyard while waiting for a table next door.

Whether you choose to wait on the porch, by your car or at The Backyard, make sure to wear loose-fitting clothes when visiting The Italian Fisherman — and keep breakfast and lunch on the light side that day.

THE ITALIAN FISHERMAN

True to its name, The Italian Fisherman goes through a lot of mussels, as Chef Oscar, aka ‘Ricky,’ demonstrates.

The Italian Fisherman is at 5890 U.S. 1 in Grant-Valkaria.

Currently seatings are at 4:30 and 6:45 p.m. Wednesdays through Saturdays; and 3 and 5:30 p.m. on Sundays.

Reservations are not only encouraged, they are vital if you want to assure a table. Most seatings are sellouts. To reserve, visit theitalianfishermangrantfl.com. Guests can also text 321-895-6283 on the week of the reservation or to make arrangements for large parties. 

See the original article in print publication